A few further thoughts about Vienna before I get into Praha.
I was struck at how polluted Vienna seemed. It was not a "dirty" city, really, but the air quality was atrocious. The hills in the distance were barely visable. Before you point out that hey, they're in the distance and so will be hard to see, I will also note the the city's skyscrapers were also quite fuzzy. There are few pedestrian only streets, and I swear I was smelling auto exhaust most of the time I was there. At least, I smelled car fumes when the occasionally waft of piss (human?) and shit (horse?) came in my direction. I will add the caveat that I had a sore throat when I was there and may (was) more attentive and bothered by these things than I am normally. I guess I'm used to the clean air of Oslo. Copenhagen isn't too bad, since everyone bikes everywhere. Minneapolis has its rough days, but compared to most U.S. cities isn't too terrible.
Other notes. Austrians: not very attractive. (I am such an ASSHOLE)
Today Vienna is definitely central european. It has not be a major power in the vast part of the 20th century. And there seems to have been a vast influx of eastern europeans into the city, causing a bit of a boom in the last 15 years or so. Nonetheless, the city was quite modern and very Western (capital W on that shit). Meaning: it wasn't as cheap or as intersting of a contrast to what I'm used to as I thought it would be.
Enough Vienna!
Yesterday after a slow morning I took an afternoon train in to the Czech Republic and Prague. The train ride was pretty dull on the Austrian side, but became much more interesting one we crossed the old East-West divide. For one thing, it was just more beautiful: mountains (okay...hills) combined with autumn foliage, small rivers, and a nice small-hamlet vibe from a few villages. Plus, it was awesome to see all the crumbling buildings from the warsaw pact era (and all that business).
Prague is...a beautiful city and (!) it is a joy to walk around in.
There are too many tourists, parts of it overflow. I feel like I'm 5-10 years to late to enjoy Prague as it once was. Yes, it is "safe" for tourists now. Meaning, a bit too many souvenir shops, trinket hawkers, and befuddled groups abound (albiet sluggishly).
Still, the city has some edge to it. For one thing, I felt like a complete asshole for speaking English. I was treated to as poor of restaurant service as I've gotten anywhere, it may match a nefarious resto in Nice from previous trip. Speaking of the French, I've been suprised at how often I've heard my mother('s) tongue. New french hotspot?
Still, the city is cheap. Not as cheap as it once was...tourism is driving up the prices. Still, I can get a good hot filling meal and beer for 10 USD close to a tourist area. In Norway I'd be paying 12 USD just for a beer in a comparative location.
Ughing Norway. This trip has reminded me what a small town Oslo is. Fuck-ing Os-lo.
Can I mention: I am tired of feeling like shit. My sore throat has moved into runny nose town. Full blast the last two days. My knee feels much better today, which I am very thankful for. The last full day in Vienna was pain.
I sene I've written a lot but haven't SAID ANYTHING. This may deserve a later post. I have thought more of things to put up. Maybe later tonight, maybe tomorrow. Maybe never?
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